Wells Gray Provincial Park

The Great Fire of July 16, 1926

On July 16, 1926, wildfire roared up the Clearwater Valley. In the space of 13 hours it jumped the Clearwater River just north of Spahats Falls and raced northwards — 28 km up the valley, the Ludtke family having dinner heard a roaring sound and saw firebrands falling from the sky. They grabbed blankets, huddled under a bridge over Battle Creek with their cow, calf and horses, soon to be joined by mink and rabbits. "They were in the water from 6:30 pm until 2:30 am."

Gus Ludtke, circa 1931-32

Ludtke property with Battle Creek Bridge

Don Albert interviewed Mr. Rupell, the Ludtkes' neighbour, who said "The fire came in from the field to the Southwest. Henry's house was already blazing and it looked like mine would be next." Berta and Gus's son Fred Ludtke had been up the valley at John Ray's homestead, and as Fred returned he saw a tower of smoke higher than Trophy Mountain. Ash was still burning. In total 125,000 acres burned.

Remarkably, there were no fatalities. However, those who underwent surgery months before, would suffer an infection from the experience and die months later. Henry Johnson, in his book "Memories of a Depression Homestead", described entering the valley from 1934 to 1942: "In the '30s he drove to Upper Clearwater Valley. The timber thirty feet high, we saw Whitehorse Bluff and the whole Clearwater Valley from an old burn with dead cedar still standing and new growth twenty to thirty feet high filling the valley."

Wildfire Implications — Life After Fire

Wildfire is the main ecological driver of forest renewal in Western Canada. The 1926 wildfire that spread through much of the Upper Clearwater Valley wiped out the old-growth forests dominated by Cedar and Douglas-fir and set the stage for the birth of a new forest among the blackened dead trees and deadfall. At first, plants such as fireweed, grasses, willow, dogwood, thimbleberry, soapberry and alder grew, which created a paradise for moose for decades — which created the creation of Wells Gray Provincial Park.

Over time the shrub cover was replaced by a young forest of paper birch, aspen, pine and douglas-fir, while shade tolerant spruce, fir, cedar and hemlock started to grow underneath. A century after the fire we now have a wide diversity in forest stands. The old charred dead trees that remain in the forest still bear witness to the 1926 fire — "there is a lot not all places and properties burned in the 1926 wildfire, and that living safely in the valley means adapting to it, and that there is a lot that can be done to reduce the risk of a catastrophic wildfire today."

🏠 FireSmart BC

For residents of the Upper Clearwater Valley, embracing FireSmart principles is not optional — it's a way to live safely and sustainably in a fire-adapted landscape. Free home assessments and partial rebates for FireSmart work are available through TRND. Learn more at firesmartbc.ca.

Viewing the 100-Year-Old Forest

Starting from the Wells Gray Visitor Centre, drive North on Clearwater Valley Road. To understand the long-lasting effects of the fire, take note of the towering coniferous forest on each side as you drive to Spahats Falls. Walk the trail marked Grove of Giants. This is the original old growth forest.

Drive up to the Shaden Viewpoint to get a magnificent view up the Clearwater River across due to strong winds. As you leave Spahats and travel North on Clearwater Valley Road, you can notice a subtle difference in the forest, becoming more a mix of deciduous and coniferous trees that are noticeably smaller in size. You are now entering a 100-year-old forest with Douglas Fir, Paper Birch, Trembling Aspen, Spruce, and Cedar.

At km 27 from the roundabout in Clearwater is the Wells Gray Ranch. In the back field on the left stands the Rupell cabin. At km 29 you cross Battle Creek. Imagine a family taking shelter under a bridge like this — the actual bridge is on the Ludtke property.